waldorf astoria chicago

What are your three favorite dining towns?

Topping my list are…

• Chicago
• Las Vegas
• Paris

…in order of where I happen to be visiting at the time, and were the next reservation will take us. I recently returned home from Chicago, experiencing nothing short of culinary nirvana.

The highlight of the trip was the opportunity to be Guest-Chef-of-the-Day at MOTO Restaurant. The word “cutting-edge” falls way short in describing Chef Homaro Cantu’s vision for the feeding the future. MOTO is a culinary laboratory that dazzles, excites and inspires. I am on fire to experiment with ideas picked up from one day in the kitchen with Chef Chris Jones and his team of uber-creative chefs and cooks. And later that evening at ING, the sister restaurant next door where live tweetING is encouraged, we enjoyed the most engagING service, sippING Champagne, and flavor trippING on an incredible sweet potato dish…

ing: sweet potato chain, vanilla parsnip, balsamic, truffle, hazelnut

GLENN’S DINER is a family-friendly neighborhood spot that serves fabulous fresh fish and cereal. Cereal from a cereal bar! My nephews, Stone, 9, and Jett, 7, love this place, as do the adults. Glenn, whoever you are…you are a genius. I recommend the fresh Mahi Mahi with ginger sesame soy glaze. Stone recommends the cheesy Shrimp Cargo followed by a bowl of Reese’s Puffs.

glenn's diner: cereal bar

Another winner – brunch @ LONGMAN & EAGLE – they don’t take reservations so we had to wait at the bar…sip our coffee and torture ourselves with a bacon doughnut appetizer. Our brunch included a refreshing twist on the usual, a Bloody Lawrence – made with corn whisky, a deconstructed clam chowder, and prawn & cheese grits with a one hour egg…the shot of Pabst Blue Ribbon beer with our meal was a uniquely Chicago-y touch.

longman & eagle: brunch

The Waldorf Astoria Chicago is home to two-star Michelin, sophisticated, unpretentious, chic RIA restaurant. With Chef Danny Grant at the helm, our modern seasonally-driven French dining experience could not have been more enchanting. The gorgeous comfortable dining room is bathed in silver and gold and soothing neutral tones. Uncommon and intimate, the tables are spaced far apart, dressed in white accented with a single burgundy calla lily. The rolling Champagne cart carries unique offerings, many not available anywhere else in the US.

A FLAWLESS MEAL

gourgères

exclusive champagne offering

bubbly

Cattier
Brut, “Antique,” Chigny-les-Roses, 1er Cru Champagne NV

Pommery
Brut Rosé, “Cuvée Apanage”
Avize, Cramant & Chouilly, Grand Cru, Champagne NV

AMUSE BOUCHE

amuse bouche 1: scallop

amused

amuse bouche 2: sea urchin, cauliflower

BREAD

bread...

...and butter

WHITE WINE

auteur chardonnay

2007 Auteur Chardonnay Hyde Vineyard
USA, California, Napa Valley, Carneros

Winemaker’s Note: The near perfect Hyde Chardonnay shows a remarkably crisp, refined, almost aristocratic side of California chardonnay. While reticent on the nose at first, hinting at tropical and citrus fruit, after few minutes in the glass, fruit comes gushing forth with white peach, lychee, pineapple and lemon. As these fade, the haunting aroma of hazelnut becomes apparent and is joined by an earthiness seldom found in California chardonnay. On the palate the cascade of fruit continues, constantly changing but finally coming to rest on exotic starfruit. The finish lingers with baked lemon and spice. While all the ripe fruit gives an impression of roundness, ample acidity keeps this wine fresh and coiled, suggesting not only long aging potential, but also making it a perfect refreshing spring wine in its youth.

FIRST COURSE

veal sweetbread, crosnes, celery, black trumpet

foie gras

brioche for the foie

perigord black truffle, egg pasta, celeriac, vermouth

RED WINE

volnay 1er cru burgundy

2009 Domaine Joseph Voillot Volnay 1er Cru Champans
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Volnay 1er Cru

dark berry intensity

Aromas  of dark berry fruit, earth and wet stone. Intense and powerful berry flavors, long finish. Joseph Voillot Volnay ‘Les Champans’ is a premier cru Burgundy produced on 25 acres of vines. Harvested and sorted by hand aged in French oak barrels, of which only 30% of the barrels are new to enable the essence of the fruit to shine through.

MAIN COURSE

suckling pig, vin jaune, boudin noir, hay, salsify

loup de mer, brussels sprouts, apple, winter squash

dry aged strip loin, leek, rapini, comte

CHEESE COURSE

cheese selection

french cheeses

cheese accompaniments: breads, crackers, pecans, spun honey

MIGNARDISES

last bite of heaven

au revoir

…until we see each other again.

Your three favorite dining towns? Please share.

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• 

Best friends, great memories, stellar food – that’s how we celebrate the New Year! The old gang is together again, this time we take A Trip To Little Saigon & cook a NYE Repas du Soir together! My old dear friends, dating back to our restaurant days in the 80′s, are visiting for the holidays.

It was Tori’s idea to spend the day in Little Saigon. Eating lunch, laughing, taking photos, getting massages, and shopping. It was her idea that led to the inspiration to cook French/Vietnamese for dinner. We picked up authentic ingredients for our repas du soir and returned to my home in LA in the late afternoon to drink Champagne and create a six-course meal together.

The dinner table was pre-set in a casually elegant Southeast Asian style with orchids, bamboo, and the color red to symbolize wealth and prosperity. We cranked up the holiday music and started cooking; everyone participated in the creation, photography, prep, and execution of the menu. We had a blast!

I had no intention of submitting this outing for the Foodbuzz 24X24 event until I read that the folks over at Foodbuzz were interested to see how Featured Publishers would be spending the last day of 2011. We had terrific culinary/cultural plans that turned out to be a fantastic way to ring in the New Year.

Extending a very special thank you to my friends FA, Al, Kirk, Tori, and Tom for your love & friendship and sense of humor & adventure! Thank you to Foodbuzz for choosing A Trip to Little Saigon & The NYE Repas du Soir as a participant in December’s 24×24 event. Foodbuzz 24×24 showcases posts from 24 Foodbuzz Featured Publisher bloggers, highlighting unique meals occurring around the globe during a 24-hour period.

Little Saigon, Orange County, California

There are several Little Saigon’s in the US but none as old or large as the one in Orange County, California.

After a pit stop at Tapioca Express for Bubble Tea, we were ready for our massage. Bubble (or Boba) tea is a unique drink which originated in Taiwan, with gummy balls made of sweet potato, cassava root and brown sugar. The balls settle at the bottom of the hot or cold tea, or smoothie and are slurped up with an over-sized straw. Flavor choices range from fruity  to exotic, sweet, and even sour.

Tapioca Express
9922 Bolsa Ave. Westminster, California
714-839-3655

We all give kudos and thanks to Tori and Tom for arranging our one-hour massage. The rest of us had never experienced this type of massage. It is a fully-clothed full-body massage. We were all in the same room together, a terrific group event. And we were all relaxed, happy, and a bit sore (in a good way) when were were handed our tiny cup of tea at the end. Ready to greet the New Year!

Olala Reflexology
9950 Bolsa Ave. Westminster, California
714-775-8588

 Vietnamese Lunch in Little Saigon

Luc Dinh Ky
9812 Bolsa Ave. Westminster, California
714-839-6813

#24 House Special Meat & Shrimp Soup, Rice Noodle

Theresa, the delightful owner of the Olala Reflexology recommended that we have lunch at Luc Dinh Ky, and gave us her list of top dishes. We took her advice 100% and were pleasantly surprised. Meat & Shrimp Soup with Rice Noodles, Hot Pot Rice with Salmon, House Special Chow Fun, Chinese Vegetable with Beef, Deep Fried Tofu, House Special Fried Rice…

#38 House Special Chow Fun

In addition to the great food, being restaurant alumni, we were also super-impressed with the service. This has got to be the fastest service we have ever had. No sooner that we finished ordering the last dish, the first dish was practically on the table.

We had tea to accompany our meal…Champagne and terrific wines to come later in the evening.

After the Vietnam War ended on April 30, 1975, a huge wave of Vietnamese refugees settled in the United States with the largest concentration in Westminster, California. Little Saigon evolved when many refugees were airlifted to Marine Corps Base Camp Pendleton, stayed and settled in the area because of the climate and the prospect of reunions with friends. But many lacked American job skills and command of the language, and had few options to make a living. Except, many could cook! And they did. Opening hundreds of successful restaurants in Westminster and Garden Grove since the mid 1970′s.

Shopping in Little Saigon

This three-square-mile area is the home of more than 4000 Vietnamese-American businesses. Huge shopping centers and strip malls offer a range of ethnic boutiques, orchid florists, bakeries, cafés, Phở shops and high-end restaurants, fresh handmade tofu stores, jewelry stores, and large and small food markets, and more.

We, or course, love the supermarkets where the selection of herbs is unparalleled.

Historic Sources:
The Little Saigon Cookbook by Ann Le
Westminster Chamber of Commerce

The New Year’s Eve Repas du Soir

Le Menu

Banh Mi Canapés
Summer Rolls
Spring Rolls
Hot Rock Soup
Black Cod en Papillote
Vol-au-Vent, Coconut Sorbet

There are more than 700 orchid species found in Vietnam. Cymbidiums thrive in cooler areas and some of the Northern provinces.

When it was time to sit down to dinner, Kirk lit a fire in the fireplace and moved the huge cymbidium orchids to the coffee table.

Course #1 Appetizer
Banh Mi Canapés

Banh Mi Canapés were the perfect introduction to our meal – blend of French and Vietnamese cuisines. The French introduced the baguette during colonization. Here we take the popular Banh Mi sandwich and serve it as a canapé.

Cinnamon Meatloaf

The beef and pork meatloaf is flavored with fish sauce, cinnamon, sugar and black pepper.

Al spread chili aioli on toasted baguette then topped it with a couple slices of super-thinly sliced cinnamon meatloaf.

Banh Mi Canapés

Pickled daikon/cucumber/carrot, fresh jalapeño, and cilantro are placed atop the meatloaf. This canapé was fabulous – colorful, spicy, exotic. UPDATE: Full recipe now posted here.

Course #2 Salad
Summer Rolls

For our fresh salad-y course we all make our own summer rolls in the family room. We’ve set out all the ingredients, and six plates with (a non-traditional) soy dipping sauce made with soy sauce, chili oil, sesame oil, seasoned rice wine vinegar. I’m fortunate to have 2 large dining tables. The one in the family room was used to prep this meal and is where we composed the summer and spring rolls.

• Spring Roll Wrappers/Water to Soften/ Clean Dish Towels
• Red Leaf Lettuce
• Cellophane Noodles
• Shopped Peanuts
• Julienne Carrot, Cucumber, & Scallion
• Mung Bean Sprouts
• Cilantro, Mint, Rau Que (basil), Rau Ram (Vietnamese coriander)

Summer Rolls, Spicy Soy Dipping Sauce

Course #3 “Fried” Salad
Spring Rolls

The next course is spring rolls which we deep-fried in the little fryer out on the patio. The ingredients are similar to the summer rolls but we add the main ingredient, a pork-shrimp mixture. Cooked minced pork/shrimp is seasoned with the ginger/garlic/chili coconut sauce (recipe follows).

Everyone created their rolls then took them outside on the patio to fry.

Spring Rolls, Rau Ram, Nuoc Cham

The traditional Nuoc Cham sauce was served with the spring rolls. Combine 1/2 c. warm water with 2 T. sugar, 1 minced garlic clove, 3 T. fish sauce and 2 T. fresh lime juice. The fried roll is then nestled in a large lettuce leaf with fresh herbs – mint, cilantro, rau que, and rau ram and dipped in nuoc cham.

Course #4 Soup
Hot Rock Soup with Rib-Eye, Aromatic Broth

I had been wanting to make a variation of Hot Rock soup for months. I sent the river rocks through the dishwasher several times just to be safe! Our idea was to combine an aromatic lemongrass-ginger chicken stock with light vegetables, and a small piece of prime thin-sliced rib-eye cooked on a hot rock in the middle of the bowl of soup.

Heat rocks in a 400° oven. Drape a piece of rib-eye over each rock. Place rock in a heat-proof soup bowl and scatter with vegetables such as mushrooms, julienne carrots and zucchini.

Ladle broth around the rock.

Hot Rock Soup: Rib-eye, Lemongrass-Ginger Broth

The beef is cooking on the rock, and the rock is keeping the soup hot. By the time the soup bowls hit the table the beef is perfectly cooked. Garnish with fresh herbs. This soup made a light and whimsical course.

Course #5 Fish
Black Cod in Papillote, Ginger Garlic Chile Coconut Sauce, Fresh Herbs

We made the ginger/garlic/chili coconut sauce to top the fish and also as a seasoning for the spring rolls pork/shrimp mixture. Combine minced ginger, garlic, and green chili in a mortar, grind with pestle. Add fish sauce, sugar and lime juice. Use the pestle again to grind all the ingredients together into a rough paste. Transfer mixture to a bowl and stir in coconut milk.

Cut parchment paper into large hearts. Place fresh herbs, such as cilantro, mint, rau ram, and rau que, in the center of each half heart. Top with a 6 oz. fresh black cod fillet. Place a couple tablespoons of the coconut sauce over the fish. Dust with a pinch of ground star anise.

Bake at 400°F on baking sheets until cooked through. I didn’t realize it until I saw this photo, but the fish course was ready to serve exactly at 11:00 PM, perfect timing for our NYE celebration!!

Black Cod en Papillote - Ginger, Garlic, Chile, Coconut Sauce

Serve the Cod en Papillote with steamed white rice and fresh herbs.

Course #6 Dessert
Vol-Au-Vent with Coconut Sorbet, Fresh Fruit, Chiffonade of Shiso

Cut puff pastry into rounds with cookie-cutter. Use a smaller cutter to cut half-way through the pastry to make a hat. Bake until golden brown.

Vol-Au-Vent, Coconut Sorbet, Fruit, Shiso

Fill pastry shell with coconut sorbet. Serve with assorted colorful fruits and a chiffonade of shiso.

Happy New Year! Bonne année et bonne santé! Chúc Mừng Nǎm Mới 

New Year’s Day Fabulous Leftovers Brunch

Le Menu

Krug Grande Cuvée Champagne
Banh Mi Canapés (again, yay)
Fresh Fruit (leftover from dessert course)
Panini (bacon, saint andré, cambozola)
Fried Rice (made with leftover rice, rib-eye, and mushrooms)

Krug Grande Cuvée – intense and complex. This is the Champagne to drink with brunch on New Year’s Day! Golden in color with a creamy texture, slightly fruity, with flavors and aromas of hazelnuts and toast.

“Happy New Year to you, our dear friends, who manage to remain so close to our hearts over the space of time, distance and life changes.”

“Thank you for a wonderful visit, as always. You have comfy accommodations and the best of everything!”

“So, in this new year we send you our love and thanks for your long and valued friendship, and our hopes that your new year brings all of what you wish for and nothing unwanted.”

“Thanks again for your warm hospitality!”

“Thanks for sharing your lovely, warm and beautiful home with us. What fun it was to spend time cooking, eating, and sharing with such wonderful life-long friends.  Your gracious hospitality made it a very special time and the memories and pictures will continue to warm my heart and soul for a long time. Happy New Year!”

 Thank you!
Wishing you all a Delicious and Dazzling 2012!

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• 

“Croque Madame”

What is it that makes one restaurant stand out from the rest?

Food:  Where every dish hits the mark. Imaginative, original. Expertly crafted. Executed with finesse. Harmony of color, texture, and taste.

Wine:  An interesting wine list that synergizes with the menu. The wine selection accentuates the food. The food selection accentuates the wine. Fairly priced. We adore a sommelier who listens to us describe what we are looking for in a wine, then nails it. “We’re in the mood for a pinot noir that is fruit forward, bright and juicy, complex. We would also love to try something new. In a white. No oak. No grapefruit flavors. Something rich.” (See below for the superb wine picks).

Service:  Professional service that is polished, warm and engaging without being overly chummy. Anticipatory with flawless timing. Ultimately knowledgeable.

Hospitality:  Gracious hosts. When learning of our crazed appreciation for food (maybe the camera gives it away?) we were invited for a peek behind the glass-walled kitchen at the end of the night.

Ambiance: An intersection of architecture, decor, tableware, lighting, and music. A room where we as guests feel comfortable, glamorous, appreciated.

We found a stand-out restaurant recently, in Hatfield’s.

What makes a restaurant stand out for you?

Hatfield’s. Taste with the eyes.

Beginning with the complimentary rosemary-garlic-shallot-oil popcorn served at the bar which we nibbled with Champagne, followed by the Chef’s amuse bouche when were were settled in at our table, we knew we were in for a special evening.

“Croque Madame”
yellowtail sashimi, prosciutto, sunny side up quail egg, grilled brioche

Bobo Farms Foie Gras
apple-rosemary “butter”, caramelized cippolini, molasses toast

Wine Selection
vermentino and pinot noir

Antoine Arena Patrimonio “Haut de Carco” Blanc 2009
100% Vermentino. Fresh, bright fruit flower aromas. Smooth, creamy and rich texture, with concentrated round flavors of peach, apple, and apricot. Spicy notes on the finish. An esoteric white wine from the Mediterranean island of Corsica.

Steamed Branzino
brown butter spaghetti squash, broccolini-maitake sauté, muddled citrus vinaigrette

Charred Octopus Salad
confit potatoes, marinated fennel, arugula, green olive tapenade

Farmhouse Salad
lola rosa, endive, avocado, pee wee potatoes, persian cucumber, roasted almonds

Busy.

2009 Hirsch Vineyards “San Andreas Fault” Pinot Noir
Enticing fruit and floral aromas of cherries, raspberries, lavender, orange blossom, anise. Bright, juicy, and briary red berry flavors. The San Andreas Fault runs less than a mile from the vineyard. A beautiful complex California pinot.

Hanger Steak and Red Wine Braised Short Rib
caramelized fennel, yukon gold potatoes, smoked hon shimeji mushroom

Date and Mint Crusted Lamb
roasted heirloom root vegetables, fresh english peas, potato chive puree

Pan Roasted Striped Bass
corn and chanterelle mushrooms, oven-dried tomato tartare, sherry beurre fondue

Dining Room
Sophisticated, modern, and comfortable.

Peanut Butter-Caramel Ganache Tart
cocoa crumble, salted caramel ice cream

Sugar & Spice Beignets
venezuelan chocolate fondue, root beer milkshake shot

Chocolate Malted Bavarian
devil’s food cake, pine nut caramel corn, bitter chocolate sorbet

Pick up window at the end of the night.

Breakdown.

Quinn Hatfield – Chef/Owner
Karen Hatfield – Pastry Chef/Owner
Brian Best – Chef de Cuisine

Reset and ready for tomorrow. Perhaps for you?

Last to leave.

Reservations 323-935-2977
Hatfield’s
6703 Melrose Ave.
Los Angeles

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• 

We’ve been hitting The Las Vegas Culinary Jackpot, big time! A week ago I shared what is now our absolute favorite spot for Brunch in Vegas – Bobby Flay’s Mesa Grill @ Caesar’s. Among many other items, the Yucatan Style Grouper with Blue Crab Succotash Sauce is brilliant. Our epicurean bonanza did not stop at Mesa Grill, though.

Thanks to my brother’s edict that we try new restaurants, on this trip we hit the mother lode. To our immense delight, we re-discovered Las Vegas’ first celebrity chef, the charming André Rochat. It was with fond memories of escargots and duck à l’orange enjoyed at André’s in Downtown Vegas decades ago that we made our dinner reservations.

“In the 1980s, it was a whole different city. We were the only freestanding gourmet restaurant in town. We were very busy, very busy, sometimes with a line at the door,” said Rochat, who was raised in a small town outside Lyon, France. (Read more about our favorite Las Vegas legend here).

André’s @ Monte Carlo reflects the original old-world Downtown Vegas charm and combines it with new-world breathtaking aqua décor and warm, personalized service plus the Chef’s years of talent and hospitality. We were so blown-away by our experience we are certain that foodies coming to Vegas to meet the hottest new Chefs will be even more impressed to meet the town’s hottest old Chef!

Our Short List of Recent Vegas Favorites

Breakfast – Mon Ami Gabi @ Paris
“al fresco on the Strip, open at 7 am, enjoy breakfast with plenty of coffee then go play blackjack”

Dealer – Paul from Thailand @ Paris
“he’s the best and we’re all 21 winners”

Brunch – Mesa Grill @ Caesar’s
“yucatan grouper”

Lunch – Mon Ami Gabi @ Paris
“mussels mariniére and french baguette for sopping up the sauce”

Bar – Michel Richard’s Central @ Caesar’s
“great beers, sip champagne by-the-glass, people-watching”

Pasta – Sirio’s @ Aria
tagliatelle pasta with fresh shaved first of the season white truffles
“get the large order $89 and share, it’s worth every cent dollar”

Dinner – André’s @ Monte Carlo
“our highest recommendation, bar none”

MON AMI GABI @ PARIS

moules mariniére
white wine and herbs

Mon Ami Gabi is that charming French bistro that offers al fresco dining on the Strip.

Chateau de Campuget Costieres de Nimes Tradition Rosé 2010

Dry Rosé from the Rhone. Syrah 70%, Grenache noir 30%. The wine’s color is an intense peony pink. Raspberry aromas. Lively and well-balanced, with just a tad more body than some other popular rosés. Nice long fruity finish. Drinking pink wine in the sun on the Strip, it doesn’t get much better…

Sunshine, Bellagio fountain show, people-watching on the Strip where the action is…
all from Mon Ami Gabi patio.

Always impressed with the level of service at Mon Ami Gabi.
Crisp, Knowledgeable, Friendly, Professional, Engaging.
We see many of the same waiters year after year.

ANDRÉ’S @ MONTE CARLO

andré’s ipad wine list
award-winning wine list that boasts more than 1,500 selections

pan-seared duck foie gras
caramelized apple, five-spice crème anglaise, port wine reduction

Sokol Blosser 2008 Dundee Hills Pinot Noir

 Complex and layered, with black cherry, berry, and earthy minerality, it has concentration and depth without being heavy. There’s wonderful structure and texture, with soft, supple tannins. An all-around delightful Oregon Pinot Noir. It’s deep flavors yet lighter body paired beautifully with many of André’s refined dishes.

fall truffle risotto
duck confit, english pea, vialone nano

imported dover sole
choice of sauce: sautéed véronique, grenobloise or amandine

berkshire pork belly
caramelized onion custard, truffle jus

heirloom vegetable tart
seared asparagus, tomato, goat cheese

carrot & walnut cake soufflé…

with cream cheese sauce!

thank you for joining us!
ANDRÉ

Chef Rochat gives his personal stamp of approval to each plate before it leaves the kitchen. In this photo he is exiting the kitchen to come over to our table. It was a pleasure and an honor to meet the Chef. Thank you Chef, for a most extraordinary experience!

BRADLEY OGDEN @ CAESAR’S PALACE

duo of foie gras with strawberries

hot: seared foie gras with strawberry jam, spice cake, licorice gastrique
cold: terrine of foie gras with strawberry gelée

to my brother’s delight, the foie gras is served on the bar menu @ Bradley Ogden
(we hear that this restaurant will be closing soon)

SIRIO RISTORANTE @ ARIA

bar and wine room

 tartara di ricciola
yellowtail tartare, avocado, artichokes, asparagus salad, champagne vinaigrette

The bright and colorful pantry display at the far end of the dining room attracts diners to watch the the preparation of cold items, including the yellowtail tartare (above). The pantry features Italian olive oil and vinegars, charcuteries, cheese, mixed antipasto salads and iced seafood.

frittura mista
calamari, bay scallop, shrimp, seasonal vegetables with spicy tomato sauce

tagliatelle con il primo tartufo bianco
be sure to share

Castellare Chianti Classico Riserva 2007

A terrific expression of Chianti, pairing very well with many of Sirio’s main courses. Aromas of cherries and plums. Bright red in color.  Fresh and fruity with bright red cherry, red currant and pomegranate flavors. A hint of oak. A long silky finish and hints of candied orange peel and flowers. Excellent value.

branzino di orbetello con scampo arrostiti
branzino & langoustine, heirloom cherry tomato guazzetto, garlic ciabatta crouton

ossobuco
braised veal shank, garden vegetables, saffron risotto

filetto di manzo
grilled prime beef tenderloin, brandy-green peppercorn sauce,
asparagus gratin with béarnaise sauce, roasted seasonal potatoes

MICHEL RICHARD’S CENTRAL @ CAESAR’S PALACE

Central’s two-sided bar opens to the Caesar’s Palace lobby. From the choice of color, to the grand design, to the translucent bar, this is an energizing place to have a drink. Our bartender was excited to tell us about Richard’s eclectic draught-beer selections.

The bright electric wrap-around bar is made of onyx.

Over-sized mirrors give the already huge space, seating up to 300, an expansive feel. We can’t speak for the food, but we were definitely impressed with the ambiance, bar service, and variety of choices of beer, sparking, and wine by the glass. Take a break from gaming or browsing the Forum Shops at Central’s Bar.

MON AMI GABI BREAKFAST @ PARIS

Bonjour Las Vegas!

 Se Réveiller! Sometime between 7 and 8 AM.

frisée & bacon salad, soft-poached egg, croutons

spinach & green vegetable egg white omelette

Bonjour. Bonne chance. Bon appétit!

With the utmost gratitude and love to my fellow bons vivants - my brother and sister-in-law. Thank you. Looking forward to our January trip, preliminarily dubbed “The Las Vegas French Tour,” where we will dine at only at Vegas’ French restaurants. You can bet we will be back at André’s, tout de suite.

Dear Readers – We would love to hear about your favorite Vegas restaurants and chefs. And Don, Kristy, and I would especially appreciate your recommendation for our upcoming Las Vegas French Tour.

Merci Beaucoup,
Lori Lynn

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• 

Asian Risotto
Sushi Rice with Rosé & Sautéed Shrimp
Flavored with Thai Basil, Shiso, and Yuzu
Chiffonade of Shiso Garnish

This month our 5 Star Cooking Group is featuring dishes cooked with wine. My contribution to the event is this aromatic Asian Risotto with pretty pink shrimp deglazed with a dry Rosé. A chiffonade of fragrant Thai basil and minty-fennely shiso leaves brings distinctive racy flavors to the dish. Fresh yuzu zest and juice add balance and vibrance.

Yuzu Tree

This is my first fruit of the season. The young green yuzu will turn a mellow golden yellow when ripened. Both the young green and the mature yellow fruits can be used in cooking, so we’ll have yuzu available all winter! The rind is very aromatic, the juice is tart. It adds a unique bright note to the risotto.

Sushi Rice

Use premium sushi rice, such as koshihikari, as an Asian replacement for Arborio.

Asian Risotto Recipe

• 2 T. canola oil
• 1 lb. medium-large shrimp (36-40′s), peeled deveined
• 2 T. butter (I use Earth Balance)
• 2 T. minced garlic
• 1 small onion, 1/4″ dice
• 2 c. sushi rice
• 1 c. Rosé, dry pink wine plus a splash of red wine
• 6 c. chicken broth
• 6 Thai basil leaves, chiffonade
• 4 shiso leaves, chiffonade, divided
• Zest from 1 yuzu
• Juice from 4 yuzu

Sauté shrimp in 1 T. oil until just cooked. Transfer to a platter, Season with salt and pepper. Add another tablespoon of oil and a tablespoon of butter to the pot with the shrimp juices. Then add the onion and sauté until soft. Add garlic sautéeing for one more minute. Add the rice and stir to coat. Cook for about 2 minutes.

Add rosé and and a splash of red wine to deglaze the pan, cooking until all the wine has evaporated. I wanted the rice to have a pretty pale pink blush, hence this extra splash of red.

Add hot chicken broth one ladle at a time, stirring and allowing each addition to be absorbed before adding the next.

Meanwhile, zest one yuzu, and squeeze the juice from a total of four fruits.

Cut the Thai basil and shiso leaves into ribbons (chiffonade).

When the rice is al dente stir in 1 T. butter, yuzu zest, yuzu juice, basil and shiso. Reserving some shiso ribbons for garnish. Add a bit more hot broth for creaminess and add the shrimp to the rice. Salt and pepper to taste.

Ladle into bowls and garnish with a chiffonade of shiso. For guests with a more daring palate, pink pickled ginger makes an interesting addition to the dish. Try a bite of ginger with each bite of shrimp.

Serve with pink wine, of course.

Inspiration from Simply Ming One-Pot Meals by Ming Tsai

Cooking with Wine

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• 

When the JetBlue flight touches down at McCarran Airport in Las Vegas, many people get that familiar tingly feeling. Excitement, adrenaline, gonna win big this time! But our thrill comes not only from fantasizing about hitting the $10 million MegaBucks jackpot (although that’s part of it). Our unique-to-Vegas sensation is mainly about hitting the Culinary Jackpot.

We agonize over our restaurant reservations well in advance of the trip, painstakingly coordinating visits to hot new Chefs, old favorite Chefs with new venues, various cuisines and locations. This time, my brother Don imposed a requirement – we could not eat anywhere we had previously eaten. Except, of course, Mon Ami Gabi @ Paris, because it’s our favorite spot for al fresco breakfast and the bar is our afternoon hangout for drinking vin gris and enjoying the Bellagio Fountains.

Another trip to Vegas, another trip to culinary heaven. Thanks to Don’s edict, this recent journey introduced us to Andre’s @ Monte Carlo, the bar at Michel Richard’s new Central @ Caesar’s, Bradley Ogden @ Caesar’s, Sirio @ Aria.

And brunch at Bobby Flay’s MESA GRILL @ Caesar’s:

APPETIZERS

Tiger Shrimp + Roasted Garlic Corn Tamale
Corn-Cilantro Sauce

*This signature appetizer is a real winner. Very rich, great for sharing.

Assorted Breads

*Mini Jalapeño Muffins

Goat Cheese “Queso Fundido”
Rajas + Blue Corn Tortilla Strips

*Kristy’s favorite, bar none.
The cheese comes out of the Bakers Pride oven bubbling hot in the Staub mini enameled cast iron dish,
it is then topped with “rajas,” rags of sliced peppers.

Smoked Salmon + Dill Quesadilla
Red Onion + Creme Fraiche

BRUNCH WINE

A Delightful Spanish White
2010 Berroia Bizkaiko Txakolina

A charming pale straw-color Spanish white wine produced from a blend of 85% Hondarribi Zuri with the balance of Riesling and Folle Blanche. Floral aromas with hints of mineral and green apple. Crisp, fruity with a hint of sweetness, well-balanced, this wine had a light spritz-y quality.

*A perfect morning wine.

Bloody Mary is a good choice too.

SALAD

Baby Romaine Salad
Roasted Garlic Dressing
Warm Hominy Croutons + Parmesan Crisps

BRUNCH ENTREES

New Mexican Spiced Pork Tenderloin Sandwich
Grilled Red Onion, Arugula, Ancho Chile Mayonnaise, Southwestern Fries

*Don, Ron, and our server all give high marks.

Mesa Burger
Grilled Vidalia Onion + Horseradish Mustard
Southwestern Fries

*My mother first couldn’t get over the size, then proceeded to enjoy this burger with knife and fork.
Perfect crust outside, medium rare and very juicy inside. Flay is the Burger King.

Yucatan Style Grouper
Blue Crab Succotash Sauce

*Lori Lynn’s top pick.
I would order this fish every time. The grouper was dense yet flaky, moist, smoky.
The sauce a perfect balance of textures and spicy/creamy flavors. The colors a delight for the eye.

KITCHEN SCENES

Burger Station

*Where the magic happens.

Bakers Pride Oven

Service was prompt, but not rushed. Knowledgeable, friendly, professional.

BAR

The entire restaurant has an aura of vitality. The energy was everywhere from the dining room to the open kitchen to the bar. Mesa Grill mirrors the excitement that is Vegas. As soon as the moratorium on eating at restaurants we’ve already visited is lifted, we will be right back @ Mesa Grill.

Bobby Flay was in the House, on a book tour signing copies of his latest cookbook Bar Americain.

In the mood for more Vegas culinary jackpots? Visit Gastronomic Wonderland!
And please stop by later in the week to Taste With The Eyes other highlights from this recent trip…

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It’s about the heat. With temperatures between 750° and 800°F a wood-fired pizza oven delivers an exceptional pizza that simply cannot be matched by a regular oven. High heat creates flavors and textures that cannot be duplicated when pizza is cooked more slowly. A pizza cooks in under three minutes right on the oven floor. The crust is crisp on the bottom, the cheese is exquisitely melted and slightly browned, and the toppings are cooked to perfection. A thing of beauty, pure pizza bliss.

wood-fired outdoor pizza oven

Our dear dear longtime friends, Chip & Pat, invited us all over for a pizza party. My nephews were thrilled to go swimming in their pool and hang out with the world’s most adorable dogs, Sophia & Luca. We brought along some pink wines to taste as well as ingredients for some pizzas. Chip had already prepared the dough and the pizza oven was heating up. We were looking forward to Pat’s caramelized onion and feta pizza, a perennial favorite…

~ THE WINES ~

french pinks

It’s about the heat. Summertime is the time for pink wine. Summer and rosé are an unbeatable combination. Refresh the palate. Quench that thirst. Dry pink wine pairs wonderfully with our pizzas.

Domaine de la Fouquette Cuvee “Rosee d’Aurore” Cotes de Provence 2010 – Salmon hue, tropical fruit aromas of pineapple and grapefruit, flavors of strawberries, watermelon and citrus. Balanced acidity, a good quality rosé from Provence. Made of the classic cépages Grenache and Cinsault, but accented with Rolle (called Vermentio in Italy and other Southern France appellations), which adds citrus aromatics, crisp acidity and a touch of minerality. $17

Domaine Le Galantin Bandol Rosé 2010 – A complex rosé, aromas hint of watermelon and rose petal. Medium-bodied, lively with crisp acidity. A classic Provencal rose with delightful fresh berry fruit flavors. It is composed of 50% Cinsault, 25% Mourvedre and 25% Grenache. 10% of the wine is saignée (bled from the must), the rest come from grapes treated as for making white wine. Médaille de Bronze Paris 2011 $20 (Lori Lynn’s #1 pick).

Pascal Jolivet Sancerre Rosé 2009 – The Pascal Jolivet Rosé is a blend of direct press and saignée production method rosé wine made from 100% Pinot Noir grapes. This Sancerre rosé had forward aromas of red fruits, it’s full of elegance and subtlety. $25 (Pat & Kristy’s #1 pick).

Domaine de Jarras Gris de Gris Languedoc 2010 - The Gris de Gris is created from a blend of Grenache (80%), Cinsault (15%) and Carignan (5%) varietals coming from the vineyards raised on the Lion Gulf Sands. The Lion Gulf Soil, comprised of sandy sediments transported by the sea and winds along the Mediterranean Coast, is very unique. Light fresh flavors, especially strawberry jam. $10

~ THE PIZZAS ~

kids’ pizza – cheese & just a few pepperoni

bacon, lettuce & tomato pizza

caramelized onion & feta pizza

half mushroom & burrata, half smoked salmon & crema pizza

~ THE POOL ~

It’s about the heat. We’re goin’ swimmin’ first.

~ THE OVEN ~

It’s about the heat. Chip begins the process of firing the oven about four hours before the party.
He lights almond wood in the center of the oven and progressively adds more wood as the hours go by.

Chip’s giant toothbrush, called a spazzola, is a fireproof brush used to
sweep ashes away from the cooking area.

When the temperature is 850°F, Chip moves all the wood and embers
to a corner of the oven with an aluminum ash stick.

He uses the spazzola to sweep the ashes from the cooking area.

A long handled wooden pizza peel, buccia di legno pizza, is used to transfer the pizza into the oven.
At this point the oven has cooled slightly to 800°F.

Pizza is placed on the buccia di legno pizza.
Chip, our master pizzaiolo, positions it in the cleaned area of the oven.
With a short forward jerk, he slides the pizza onto the hot oven floor.
A quick pull of the paddle backward completes the maneuver.

Our pizzaiolo watches the pizza, moving it around and turning it with the palo di infornare,
which is made of aluminum, to help it cook evenly. In three minutes, it’s cooked to perfection!

~ PIZZA RECIPES ~

BLT PIZZA

Lightly brush pizza dough with olive oil. Spread a thin layer of pizza sauce.
Sprinkle with shredded mozzarella and cooked bacon pieces. Top with sliced roma tomatoes.

Cook for about 3 minutes, turning as necessary.

Toss chopped romaine lettuce with buttermilk ranch dressing. Top pizza with lettuce.

Enjoy a slice of BLT Pizza by the pool!

PAT’S CARAMELIZED ONION & FETA PIZZA

Put about 2 T. olive oil in a skillet with a teaspoon of sugar and two large Vidalia or Maui onions, sliced,  over medium low heat for – really about 30 minutes. Move them around as they begin to soften – do not let brown quickly – cook very slowly for best results. If you cook them fast they will brown or burn as you well know and loose their plumpness and shape. Make 2 batches for one large pizza.

Brush dough with olive oil then cover completely with caramelized onions.
Top with feta cheese, then hand the pizza off to the pizzaiolo!

HALF MUSHROOM & BURRATA, HALF SMOKED SALMON & CREMA

Sauté mushrooms in a bit a olive oil, add fresh thyme leaves and season with salt and pepper. Brush pizza dough with a small amount of olive oil. Spread rough chopped burrata on one side and Mexican crema on the other. Top burrata with mushrooms and fresh thyme sprigs. Top crema with slices of roma tomato then smoked salmon, caperberries, and brined green peppercorns.

White-hot: inside the wood-fired oven.

Don’s #1 pick – smoked salmon & crema pizza.

KIDS’ CHEESE & JUST A FEW PEPPERONI PIZZA

Brush pizza dough with a small amount of olive oil. Spread pizza sauce over the dough.

Taking the job of pizzaiolo seriously.

Kids’ cheese pizza, gets a few pepperoni, but “not too many.”

Don & Jett learning the pizzaiolo skills.

Big hit: Kids’ Pizza.

What’s better than made-from-scratch wood-fired pizza after a swim on a hot summer day?

When the moon hits your eye like a big pizza pie, that’s amore.
When the world seems to shine like you’ve had too much wine, that’s amore.

5 STAR MAKEOVER COOKING GROUP

Natasha, the 5 Star Foodie & Lazaro of Lazaro Cooks! host the 5 Star Makeover Cooking Group, an outstanding monthly event for “sharing ideas and creating gourmet makeovers of selected classic dishes or flavor combinations.”

August’s theme is pizza and as a result there are some of the most creative pizzas in the blogosphere being posted this month. Thanks to our dear friends Chip & Pat, my contribution to this month’s Cooking Group Event is the WOOD-FIRED PIZZA. Natasha and Lazaro will be posting a round-up on Friday – pizza aficionados must stop by!

UPDATE: The Cooking Group’s Pizza Event is now posted here.

That’s amore! Grazie Chip & Pat!

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The Ritz-Carlton, Los Angeles

We LoVe LA & Wolfgang Puck

Roll down the window, put down the top
Crank up the Beach Boys, baby
Don’t let the music stop
We’re gonna ride it till we just can’t ride it no more

From the South Bay to the Valley
From the West Side to the East Side
Everybody’s very happy
‘Cause the sun is shining all the time
Looks like another perfect day, I loVe LA

The Original Spago c. 1989

Spago in West Hollywood on the Sunset Strip

Back in the late 80′s, maybe 1989, my foodie friends and I first dined at Spago. For better or worse, the word “foodie” was coined in the 80′s. We worked, lived, and breathed restaurants – we were chefs (Aldo & Bruce), bartenders (Tamara), waiters (Lauren & Scott)  - and I had the restaurant business in my blood – having been a restaurant cook, bookkeeper, manager, hostess, and waiter. At the time most of us were working at a cutting-edge restaurant in Redondo Beach called Chez Mélange. My friends from Aspen, Aldo and Bruce, were in town and we were dying to take them to Spago. Inspirational restaurateur and owner of Chez Mélange, Michael Franks, graciously called over to Spago to secure us a reservation. We felt like we were on the A-list. Upon arrival, Michael had surprised us with a big bottle of Champagne, and we were thrilled when Wolfgang Puck himself brought over a duck sausage pizza to welcome us. (It never occurred to me to take a photograph of the food, my how times have changed!)

Spago Hollywood wasn’t stuffy or traditional. Wolfgang’s then-wife Barbara Lazaroff  designed it to be friendly, fun and colorful – where everyone could see and be seen!  Were we really “hanging spoons” at Spago? She designed the first exhibition kitchen in the United States for a fine dining establishment, the view of the city from high above Sunset Boulevard took everyone’s breath away. It was so California!

Wolfgang Puck redefined pizza. That they came topped with everything from goat cheese and Black Forest ham to artichokes and exotic mushrooms was totally new back then. Duck sausage pizza was legendary as was his famous pizza of smoked salmon, creme fraiche, chives, red onion and a dollop of caviar.

Wine Enthusiast Magazine February 1994

O tempora! O mores!
(That’s me in the brown suit with gladiators!)

In the mid-nineties I founded a small wine brokerage dedicated to promoting fine esoteric wines that were not well-represented by the big wine distributors. It was then I began attending the American Wine & Food Festival – Wolfgang Puck’s Charitable Foundation Event. Many of the world’s top chefs and wine & spirit purveyors would gather on the spectacular backlot of Universal Studios to share samples of their finest dishes, wines & spirits in support of the Meals On Wheels Programs of Los Angeles. Since its inception in 1982, this Puck-Lazaroff Charitable Foundation event has raised more than $15 million for Meals On Wheels, which serves thousands of meals each day to Los Angeles’ homebound, senior and disabled citizens.

Downtown LA from the 24th Floor, Ritz-Carlton

Puck opened WP24 last year. On the 24th floor of The Ritz-Carlton, the restaurant features a wraparound view of LA and the San Gabriel Mountains. In addition to the stunning view, the dining room is simultaneously elegant and comfortable. Wolfgang’s modern Chinese cuisine reflects his time spent in the Far East and passion for Asian ingredients and techniques. Our waiter explained that Wolfgang was not trying to reinvent Chinese cuisine, but his goal was to make each dish the best it could be. And he did.

WP24 Dining Room

Just for fun, crank up the music baby – I Love L.A. by Randy Newman 1983

Lounge

WP24 Lounge

Try Asian small plates, sushi and sake and relax in the lounge “pod” seating.
We liked Prawn Toast with Sweet & Spicy Garlic Chili and every single variety of dumpling.

Amuse Bouche

Seafood Turnovers

Flaky buttery Seafood Turnovers were un petit cadeau from the Chef,
a rich enticing beginning to one extraordinary meal.

City of the Angels

Dumplings

Tasting of Dim Sum

Tasting of Dim Sum
Chive Crystal Dumpling (King Crab, Shrimp Kurobuta Pork)
Dan Dan Dumpling (Sichuan chicken, Peanuts, Chili)
Tiny Dumpling (Pork Belly, Black Vinegar, Chili Oil)
Sui Mai (Shrimp, Scallop)
Hargow (Shrimp)

Chili “Dan Dan” Dumplings

Organic Chicken, Chili Garlic Sauce, Crushed Peanuts, Green Onion

Main Courses

Maine Black Cod Broiled with Chinese Ginseng Honey

Roasted Black Sesame Vinaigrette, Chili-Orange Noodle Salad

Grilled Lamb Chops Marinated with Korean Gochu Jang Chili

Pickled Ginger Sauce, Crispy Garlic, Wild Arugula Salad

(My brother and I agreed that these were the world’s best lamb chops).

Noteworthy Side Dishes
Shanghai Noodles, Fresh Chilies, Thai Basil Leaves, Slow Cooked Oxtail
Hunan Spicy Eggplant, Roasted Shishito Peppers, Chili, Crisp Garlic
Stir-Fried Summer Sweet Corn, Fresh Water Chestnut, Fresno, Thai Basil

City Lights

The Wines

With an extensive list of more than 400 labels,
wines were chosen specifically for the flavors and styles that complement the menu.

Lagar de Cervera Albariño 2008

Lagar de Cervera Albariño 2008  - Bright yellow in color. Fresh apple, pear and fig aromas. Elegant minerality with hints of fresh ginger.  Clean, focused, lithe. An excellent wine as a precursor to a dinner featuring Asian flavors!

William Fevre Chablis Domaine 2009

William Fevre Chablis Domaine 2009 – a refined bouquet with citrus, white peach and floral notes. Fresh and supple, the wine is marked by mineral notes that are typical of the appellation. Complex, well-concentrated, balanced. Pairs very well with the WP24 Summer Sweet Corn & King Crab “Hot & Sour” Soup and Black Cod Broiled with Chinese Ginseng Honey.

Shane THE CHARM, 2009 Pinot Noir

Shane THE CHARM Pinot Noir, Russian River Valley – only 100 cases produced. Concentrated red fruit aromas of fresh raspberry, dark cherries, and ripe strawberry. Elegant and balanced. The mid-palate brings Asian spice accents. Bright acidity and lingering the finish. It would be difficult to find a more perfect pairing with the WP24 Asian spiced lamb chops. Absolutely charming.

Dining Room Action

Dessert

Banana Spring Roll

Banana Spring Roll
Peanut Butter Ice Cream, Banana Caramel, Chocolate

(I’ll be stealing the banana spring roll idea for my next dinner party).

Last Bite: Cookies & Tuiles

Another perfect day. We LoVe LA.

“There’s no substitute for passion, quality, or love.”
Wolfgang Puck

Please feel free to share your memories of Spago Hollywood, Chez Mélange,
or your experience at WP24 and any other Wolfgang Puck restaurant.

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• 

Originally they were the least-expensive wines bought in bulk and poured by-the-glass at a hefty profit margin in restaurants. Many house wines nowadays reflect pride of the chef, sommelier, or restaurateur and a commitment to quality. These wines say something about the establishment.

Do you have a “house wine” at your home? A wine on-hand, chilled and ready to pour when friends drop by. Your go-to wine? A wine of good value, reasonably priced yet still somewhat unique, special. A wine that isn’t on every supermarket shelf, but still handily available. An enjoyable wine that is equally suitable on the patio or at the dinner table paired with classic foods…

Our Current House Wine
Côtes-du-Rhône Blanc Belleruche 2009 M. Chapoutier

Côtes-du-Rhône Blanc is made predominantly from Grenache Blanc with its herbaceous, apple and pear aromas. Smaller amounts of Clairette and Bourboulenc balance the wine. The Bourboulenc grape gives Belleruche Blanc its sprightly acidity, which pairs wonderfully with salads dressed with vinaigrette and lemony seafood dishes. Grilled fish and goat cheese with sliced pears are also stellar pairings. $10.79/bottle after the 10% off on 6-bottle discount.

Braille embossed on the labels.

Established in 1808 in France’s Rhone region, Maison Chapoutier has been passed from father to son to grandson. All of their wine labels have been embossed in Braille since 1996.

Maurice de la Sizeranne (1857 – 1917) President of the Association of the Blind in France and owner of the famous La Sizeranne vineyard in Hermitage, was blind since age 9. He was the inventor of the first version of abbreviated Braille. M. Chapoutier’s trademark pays tribute to this man while making sure their wines are accessible to people who are blind. The Braille label provides the following information: M. Chapoutier, Appellation, Name of the Wine, Vintage, Color.

Wines with Signature, the expression of M. Chapoutier taste. A will to avoid developing a “typical taste” or set style. One the contrary, a permanent objective to work on differences in tastes, to bring out the specific tastes provided by each local terrior and wine. This is how we cold sum up the Chapoutier Estate quest, which has been present on the Rhone Valley since 1808.

Tasting notes: Pale straw color, fresh, bright fruit aromas and flavors, well-balanced, crisp acidity.

Stop by, we’ll have a chilled bottle waiting…

Very interested to hear what you’re pouring.
Please share your “house wine” in the comment section.

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• 

Inspired this past weekend, by the recent gift of a new Calabrese cookbook, my friends and I prepared an authentic Southern Italian feast. The setting was beautifully simple, complete with herbs, flowers and citrus fruits from our gardens. For the menu, we adapted seven recipes from My Calabria by Rosetta Costantino with Janet Fletcher, with outstanding results.

We enjoyed exploring this lesser known regional cuisine, learning about the remote and somewhat mysterious Calabria as we constructed our menu. Dusty and hot mountainous regions, steep slopes, and narrow coastlines all contribute to the uniqueness that is La Cucina Calabrese.

We served esoteric Italian wines with the meal, wines that paired well with the simple yet robust Calabrese cuisine. Unfortunately we had difficulty locating wine specifically from Calabria, but we certainly were not disappointed with the fabulous bottles that graced our table. And we enjoyed Gino’s locally famous homemade limoncello to cap off the affair.

Unlike most of our dinner parties, the dishes were served family style. There was plenty of conviviality and great food & drink, as we experienced Southern Italy via Southern California.

MENU

OLIVES
green and black olives with fennel seed, garlic, lemon, hot pepper

MELANZANE ALL’INSALATA
eggplant salad with garlic, mint, and hot peppers
served over romaine with ceci beans and ricotta salata

VRUOCCULI CA’ SAVUZUIZZA
hot italian fennel sausage with broccoli rabe
with raisins and pignoli

BRANZINO SOTTO SALE
whole salt-baked mediterranean sea bass, flown in fresh daily

SALMORIGLIO
olive oil-lemon-garlic herb sauce with red chiles for the fish

RISOTTO CON LE COZZE
risotto with fresh mussels, saffron, tomato

WINES
Avignonesi Vino Nobile di Montepulciano 2007
Castello d’Albola Chianti Classico Riserva 2005
Ruffino Modus Tuscany 2007

CHINULILLE
fried sweet ravioli with ricotta and kumquat, powdered sugar
espresso

LIMONCELLO
di Gino

OLIVES
green and black olives with fennel seed, garlic, lemon, hot pepper

Olive Marinade

• 1/4 c. olive oil
• 1 t. toasted fennel seeds
• 2 cloves garlic, chopped
• 2 red jalapeño chiles, sliced
• 1/2 t. kosher salt
• lemon juice to taste

Combine all ingredients, toss with olives. We served the olives as an appetizer with breadsticks.

MELANZANE ALL’INSALATA
eggplant salad with garlic, mint, and hot peppers
served over romaine with ceci beans and ricotta salata

Slice Italian eggplants lengthwise leaving the cap intact to hold them together. Place in a large pot with plenty of water. Bring to a boil. Add salt and cover. Boil for about 5 minutes until the eggplant are tender. Remove to a rack and let dry for one hour.

Meanwhile make the dressing by combining the following ingredients:

• 1/3 c. red wine vinegar
• 1/3 c. olive oil
• 4 garlic cloves, sliced
• 3 hot red/green peppers, sliced
• 1/4 c. fresh mint, thinly sliced
• 2 t. kosher salt

Place the eggplant in a baking dish.
Pour the dressing over the eggplant, cover, let marinate for 24 hours at room temperature.

We served the marinated eggplant over quartered romaine lettuce with ceci beans. Pour extra dressing from the baking dish over the salad, top with crumbled ricotta salata.

VRUOCCULI CA’ SAVUZUIZZA
hot italian fennel sausage with broccoli rabe
with raisins and pignoli

Heat olive oil in a large pan. Add chopped garlic, red pepper flakes, and raisins.
Sauté for a couple minutes.

Add a generous splash of white wine, let it reduce briefly, then add a bunch of trimmed broccoli rabe. Cover and cook until the broccoli rabe is wilted and tender.

Add salt and toasted pinenuts to the broccoli rabe.
We served this in a large bowl topped with grilled Hot Italian sausages.

BRANZINO SOTTO SALE
whole salt-baked mediterranean sea bass, flown in fresh daily

SALMORIGLIO
olive oil-lemon-garlic herb sauce with red chiles for the fish

Of all the dishes that evening this one was my favorite. I’m a huge fan of branzino and happy to add the salt-baked method to my repertoire. It is easy to do, creates quite a presentation, with spectacular results. I wrote about the process here this past Sunday.

RISOTTO CON LE COZZE
risotto with fresh mussels, saffron, tomato

Sauté a couple chopped garlic cloves and chopped parsley in about 2 T. olive oil. Add a can of diced tomatoes and 1 t. each of red chile flakes and sea salt. After a minute or two add 1/2 c. dry white wine and 2 lbs. cleaned fresh mussels. Cover and cook until the mussels open, about two minutes. Remove mussels to a separate bowl.

Meanwhile heat 1 quart of vegetable broth in a separate pot.  And heat 3 T. olive oil in a heavy 4 quart pot over medium heat. Add 1 finely chopped onion and cook in the oil until softened. Add 2 c. arborio rice, stir to coat all the individual grains, then add the tomato mixture.

Grind a generous pinch of saffron threads using a mortar and pestle and add to the rice mixture. Stirring continuously, add one ladleful of hot vegetable broth at a time as it is absorbed until the rice is al dente and creamy in texture. 

Remove about half the mussels from their shells and fold them into the risotto. Finally add the remaining mussels with their shells and serve with parsley garnish.

WINES

Avignonesi Vino Nobile di Montepulciano 2007

Varietal: Prugnolo Gentile, Canaiolo Nero, Mammolino
Characteristics: Vino Nobile is garnet red in color with aromas of violets. The wine is lively and fruity with flavors of dried berry, black cherry and spice.

Castello d’Albola Chianti Classico Riserva 2005

Varietal: Sangiovese, Canaiolo Nero
Characteristics: Aromas of licorice, black currant, marzapan and spice. With flavors of spice, chocolate and plum.

Ruffino Modus Tuscany 2007

Varietal: Sangiovese, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon
Characteristics: Complex and modern with cherry and red berry aromas. Smooth supple texture with hints of mint and and blackberry flavors. And our favorite.

CHINULILLE
fried sweet ravioli with ricotta and kumquat, powdered sugar

We started with fresh ricotta from our local Italian market (A-1 Deli on 8th St., San Pedro) which is far superior to store-bought. It has a drier consistency and is much more flavorful. To 1 1/2 c. of ricotta add the following ingredients and mix gently:

• 1/2 c. sugar
• grated zest 1 lemon
• grated zest 1 orange
• 1 T. orange liqueur
• 1 t. vanilla extract
• 1/2 t. salt

Place about a tablespoon of the ricotta mixture in the center of a wonton skin. Place about a teaspoon of kumquat marmalade atop the ricotta. Using your finger, wet the edges of the wonton wrapper with a small amount of water. Fold the wrapper on a diagonal and seal using the tines of a fork.

Fry ravioli in hot peanut oil until puffed and golden brown on both sides. Drain on paper towels.

Serve chinulille with vanilla bean ice cream and powdered sugar and a mint leaf garnish.

This feast was a great introduction to the food of Calabria. We were extremely impressed with all the dishes and now we’re hooked! We did adapt the recipes to suit our tastes and availability of product so we encourage you to seek out the book for the exact ingredients and techniques. My Calabria is a delightful cookbook – full of authentic recipes, traditions, and history of this relatively undiscovered region. Brava Signora Costantino!

…and everyone left with doggie bags…

To my dear friends and fabulous cooks: Father Adam, Tori and Tom -
Extending a special thank you for your enthusiasm to try new cuisines,
all the lovely gifts, wines and cheeses, and most importantly your friendship!
Grazie  & buono appetito!

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