Sturgeon Two Ways was one of seven courses we served at the fundraising dinner for our school this weekend. Transmontanus caviar and smoked sturgeon were paired simply with purple potato, a petite dollop of creme fraiche plus the plain adornment of a single chive and a pretty garlic flower. The society garlic blossoms have a distinct garlicky flavor which pair well with savory dishes. We deemed this the “purple course.”

update:  A friend just asked me how the purple potatoes were prepared. They were boiled in salted water until tender. Drained, left to cool, cut on a bias to get as large a slice as possible, then squared, cutting off the skin. Brushed lightly with olive oil, and seasoned with a small pinch of fleur de sel.

California sustainable white sturgeon produces this elegant dark gray caviar with a flavor reminiscent of fine Ossetra (at a fraction of the cost).  It has a rich, smooth, full-bodied taste and is heralded as both bold and lush.

I adore this photo of a masculine hand delicately placing a single garlic flower. And speaking of masculine hands, I would like to extend the utmost gratitude to my dear friend FA and my brother Bill for your help with this event. You know I couldn’t have done it without you.

We served the meat of the fish together with its precious roe for Sturgeon Two Ways. The irresistible nutty caviar paired with velvety-sweet smoked sturgeon created a heady experience for the palate, indeed.

April showers brought May flowers. And with the upcoming opening of our “ristorante alfresco virtuale” Ciao Fiore! I’ve got edible flowers on my mind. Marigold and Johnny Jump-Up, Nasturtium, Pansy, and Borage too. I spotted the fiddlehead fern fronds at Whole Foods Market, in season right now just shipped down from Portland, Oregon. Flowers and ferns seemed like a pretty pairing, and thus this delightful Month-of-May salad was born.

Edible Flowers in the Salad:

• marigold – bright orange petals, some with red tips
• johnny jump up – small purple petals
• nasturtium – large orange flower
• pansy – large dark violet-purple flower
• borage – tiny blue petals

Ciao Fiore! is an enchanting outdoor ristorante on the Mediterranean Coast featuring alfresco dining in an ambrosial flower garden. My Co-Chefs Norma from Platanos, Mangoes & Me! and Debi from Table Talk will meet me in the virtual Italian cucina to create a captivating five-star three-course meal enhanced with edible flowers and herbs dal giardino. Ciao Fiore! is a Virtual Restaurant participating inThe 5 Star Makeover Cooking Group “Restaurant Wars” Competition.

Place cleaned, trimmed ferns in boiling water for 4 minutes then plunge in an ice bath. Toss cooled ferns with olive oil, a squeeze of lemon, and sea salt. Lightly dress tatsoi and arugula with a splash of olive oil and lemon juice. Scatter petals over the salad.

Djion dressing:

• 1 T. dijon mustard
• 1 T. lemon juice
• 1 minced clove garlic
• 3 T. olive oil
• salt & pepper

Combine mustard, lemon juice, and garlic. Whisk in olive oil, season to taste. Gently toss diced Yukon gold potatoes and diced avocado with the Dijon dressing. Spoon potato and avocado over the tatsoi and arugula then arrange the fiddleheads around the salad. Finish with a sprinkling of a few more petals plus garnish with a whole flower.

For a fresh springtime experience, enjoy fiddlehead & flower salad with a glass of dry rosé!

(eat flowers and fiddleheads in moderation
taking care to choose edible varieties)

Black Cod en Papillote
Red Lentils & Leek, Carrot, Yellow Squash, Zucchini
Saffron Cream Sauce

Recently we gave a local upscale restaurant another chance. The place has a spectacular view of the Pacific and a bold imaginative menu. Unfortunately, though pleasant enough, the service misses the mark lacking attention to detail. And while there is nothing wrong with the food per se, the kitchen cannot seem to execute the dishes that sound so wonderful. They arrive at the table lacking finesse and vibrancy. One of the items that sounded promising was a seabass en papillote. The concept was terrific but the dish sadly, was just average, which then prompted me to recreate it at home.

This Black Cod en Papillote turns out to be a fabulous dish for entertaining with panache. All the components can be prepped ahead of time, just let everything come to room temperature, assemble on the parchment paper, crimp, and bake. Simply lift the packets from the baking sheet to the dinner plate. Serve warm saffron cream sauce on the side. The uniqueness of serving the entire main course in parchment plus the addition of a fresh green salad makes this a delightful meal to serve to company.

I like to use a fish with high fat content for baking in parchment. Since the wrapped fish cannot be checked for doneness without opening the package, the fat offers a buffer against overcooking. Black cod is a certified sustainable seafood and also excellent for this preparation. Its silky rich meat with a distinctive sweet flavor and flaky texture is perfect cooked “en papillote.”

Cooking fish and vegetables en papillote is traditional, but it’s the red lentils that provide a surprising layer of flavor and texture, perfect for soaking up the juices. In the sealed package the flavors and perfume of the four vegetables – carrots, leeks, yellow squash and zucchini – mingle with the cod. Finally, the saffron cream sauce is an adaptation from vegan Chef Tal Ronnen. It is dairy-free and has no cholesterol. Just a couple tablespoons add a bright exotic note. It can be made ahead, and gently reheated.

Black Cod en Papillote Recipe

Red Lentils

• 1 c. split red lentils, sorted, rinsed
• 1 1/2 c. vegetable stock
• 2 garlic cloves, mashed
• olive oil
• salt & pepper to taste

Bring the stock plus garlic to a boil. Add the lentils, bring to a boil, then simmer for approximately 15 minutes until the lentils are cooked and begin to disintegrate. Finish with a drizzle of olive oil and season to taste.

Julienne Vegetables

• leek
• carrot
• yellow squash
• zucchini

Cut the vegetables into even, thin strips. Sauté the carrot and leek briefly in a small amount of olive oil. When the carrot begins to soften and the leek begins to brown, remove from heat and toss in the yellow squash and zucchini. Season to taste.

Saffron Cream Sauce

• 1  T. olive oil
• 1 small shallot minced
• 1/2 c. dry white wine
• 1 c. cashew cream
• 1 generous pinch saffron threads
• 1 T. nutritional yeast flakes
• 2 T. Earth Balance

In a medium sauce pan over medium heat, sauté shallot in olive oil until soft but not brown. Add wine then reduce by half. Add cream, yeast, and saffron whisking constantly for 5 minutes. Finish the sauce by slowly whisking in Earth Balance (vegan butter substitute) off heat. Season to taste, serve warm.

To Assemble

Cut parchment paper into pieces large enough to wrap the fish with room to crimp. Let all ingredients come to room temperature. Rub skinless, boneless 6 oz. black cod fillets with a very light coat of olive oil. Season with salt and pepper.  Place red lentil mash in the center of a piece of parchment paper. Top with vegetables, then fish. Crimp the packet closed with the seam along the top – this way, guests can easily eat right out of the bag. Bake at 400°F for 15 minutes. Place the puffed-up packet on dinner plate and serve immediately. Have guests un-crimp their own parchment, enjoying the steamy aromas. Pass the warm saffron cream sauce on the side.

Happy entertaining!

]]> http://www.tastewiththeeyes.com/2012/05/cod-en-papillote-red-lentils-saffron-cream/feed/ 16 http://www.tastewiththeeyes.com/2012/04/ciao-fiore-3/ http://www.tastewiththeeyes.com/2012/04/ciao-fiore-3/#comments Mon, 30 Apr 2012 07:04:20 +0000 Lori Lynn http://www.tastewiththeeyes.com/?p=22394 ***Press Release Scheduled opening May 28, 2012 of Ciao Fiore! An enchanting outdoor ristorante on the Mediterranean Coast featuring alfresco dining in an ambrosial flower garden. Chefs Norma from Platanos, Mangoes & Me!, Debi from Table... Read more

Un Ristorante Alfresco Virtuale

***Press Release

Scheduled opening May 28, 2012 of Ciao Fiore! An enchanting outdoor ristorante on the Mediterranean Coast featuring alfresco dining in an ambrosial flower garden. Chefs Norma from Platanos, Mangoes & Me!, Debi from Table Talk, and Lori Lynn from Taste With The Eyes will meet in the virtual Italian cucina to create a captivating five-star three-course meal enhanced with edible flowers and herbs dal giardino. Reservations are not required.

Ciao Fiore!

Ciao Fiore! is a Virtual Restaurant
participating in
The 5 Star Makeover Cooking Group “Restaurant Wars” Competition

]]>

Woodsy. Earthy. Deep.
This is one intense vegan soup that offers full epicurean contentment.

Flavor profile:
meaty shiitake mushroom, robust kale, subtly sweet ocean-y wakame seaweed,
toasty sesame oil, tangy hot sriracha
Aroma profile:
heady, intense, wet forest, earthy
Texture profile:
steamy broth, chewy kale, silky shiitake, slippery wakame, spongy tofu, crunchy sesame seed
Color profile:
deep dark broth, midnight-green wakame and kale, spring-green scallion, electric red sriracha

Shiitake & Black Kale Soup Recipe

• 4 c. mushroom broth
• approx. 8 shiitake, sliced, stems set aside
• several leaves of black kale, de-veined, torn
• 1 T. mirin
• 1 T. low-sodium soy sauce
• small handful cut dried wakame
• diced firm tofu
• sesame oil
• sliced scallion
• toasted sesame seed
• sriracha chili sauce

Slice shiitake stems lengthwise and add to mushroom stock. Bring to a boil. Simmer for 15 minutes, remove stems, they’re too tough to eat. Add soy sauce, mirin, and sliced shiitake caps. Simmer until caps are just tender, then add black kale. Continue to simmer until the kale is tender. Add wakame, simmer an additional 5 minutes, until the seaweed is rehydrated and tender.

Place a few cubes of tofu in the bottom of a soup bowl. Ladle hot soup over the tofu. Garnish with a drizzle of toasted sesame oil, sesame seeds, sliced scallion, and a squirt of sriracha for some heat.

(Loosely adapted from Chef David Chang’s Shiitake-and-Swiss-Chard Soup with Hand-Cut Noodles).

 meyer lemon almond vinaigrette

Here’s a delightful vinaigrette recipe. Great with greens, fish, and roasted cauliflower too.

• 1/4 c. blanched slivered almonds, lightly toasted
• grated zest from one medium meyer lemon
• juice from one medium meyer lemon
• 1 T. seasoned rice wine vinegar
• 1 clove garlic, minced
• 1/4 c. almond oil
• 1/4 c. fruity olive oil
• 1/4 t. sea salt (or to taste)

Rough chop the almonds. Mix almonds, zest, juice, vinegar, garlic, and salt in a bowl. Gradually whisk oils into the mixture.

(steelhead trout)

(love those crispy bits)

(vinaigrette still life)

Balsan’s rustic artisanal menu, crisp easy-going service, and a gregarious atmosphere for which Chicago is known make for a winning combination. Looking for a place to hang out when you attend the National Restaurant Association SHOW next month?
This is the place.

And how could you not fall head-over-heels for an establishment that discreetly pays homage to
Coco Chanel – named after her first lover and business benefactor? Étienne Balsan

Balsan noticed Coco Chanel in Moulins and became her lover. They remained friends throughout their lives. In 1909, when Chanel settled in Paris, he lent her his bachelor flat on the ground floor, 160 Boulevard Malesherbes, and helped her to open a boutique in Deauville. (from wikipedia here)

Located in the heart of Chicago’s Gold Coast at 11 E. Walton Street.

Waldorf Astoria Chicago

We chose to dine at a table, but on another visit we just might sit at the bar.

*a sleek bistro ambiance

pazo de galegos albariño
rias baixas, spain

Fans of this Spanish grape must try this wine, our favorite, from a small estate (under 2,000 cases) produced from old vines and using natural yeast to respect the flavors of the terroir.

“Pazo de Galegos 2010 Albariño was fermented with native yeasts and went through partial malolactic fermentation. Fragrant lemon, floral, and mineral aromas inform the nose of this smooth-textured, round, ripe, and savory offering. Nicely proportioned and lengthy, this outstanding value will provide pleasure over the next 4 years.”  The Wine Advocate 

Choose Fruits de Mer from a raw bar brimming with Hawaiian prawns, lobster, oysters, clams and crab, as well as a seasonal crudo – this night – tuna with avocado, radish, coriander. Select from a discerning variety of  Charcuterie & Cheese including pheasant and oxtail terrines, duck rillette, prosciutto, speck, and salumi as well as impeccably-chosen artisan cheeses.

potted eggplant, ricotta salata, with thick grilled bread

*don’t pass up this über-smoky-garlicky dip

small plate: roasted cauliflower salad, almond, orange, pecorino

*a delightful combination of flavors, colors, and textures

small plate: crispy veal breast, green garlic, olive, garbanzo

* the veal – extraordinary marriage of crisp plus melt-in-the-mouth

small plate: wood oven charred sepia, cannellini beans, chorizo, arugula

* bean aficionados will swoon

large plate: steamed bar harbor mussels, vermouth, saffron

*davida’s top pick

with perfect frites, ketchup & aioli

large plate: grilled rainbow trout, ramps, artichoke, burnt orange

*bright, captivating, balanced

award winning paris-brest, hazelnut nougatine

The pastry was created in 1891 to commemorate the Paris–Brest–Paris bicycle race. Its circular shape is representative of a wheel. It became popular with riders on the Paris-Brest cycle race, partly because of its energy-giving high calorific value, and is now found in pâtisseries all over France.

“Perhaps the tastiest of all great French pastries, created a hundred years ago to honor a bicycle race. Assembled to order, which I’ve never seen done in a French patisserie. Wheel-shaped choux pastry stuffed with hazelnut mousse and hazelnut nougatine, topped with powdered sugar and toasted hazelnuts. Will have your wheels spinning.” Alan Richman

 Alan Richman of GQ Magazine named the Paris-Brest pastry at Balsan, Chicago the best dessert in the U.S. for 2010. (from wikipedia here)

butterscotch pots de creme, pecan sandies, creme fraiche

*thank you all for the sweet birthday wishes

Congratulations to Chef Danny Grant, and thank you to the terrific team at Balsan including
GM Brian O’Connor, Restaurant Manager David Sanchez Marcos,
and our knowledgeable engaging server Kelly.

A Flaky Puff Pastry Shell
Filled with a Lucious Sweet Blend of  Sour Cream & Whipped Cream Cheese with Lime
Golden Ripe Champagne Mango, Lime Zest Garnish

I dedicate this recipe to all the non-bakers of the world. Those (like me) who were born sans the baking gene, and without a sweet-tooth. But who still love to entertain, and just so happen to have friends and family who actually like dessert. A lot.

Preparing this delightful mango & lime cream vol-au-vent takes no particular skill what-so-ever. Follow instructions on a package. Peel a mango. Zest a lime. Whisk sour cream with cream cheese. That’s pretty much the extent of it.

Mango & Lime Cream Vol-au-Vent Recipe

Brush the top of vol-au-vent with egg wash and sprinkle with sugar.
Bake the store-bought vol-au-vent according to package instructions.

Meanwhile, peel and slice Champagne mangoes with a vegetable peeler.
Squeeze lime juice over mango.

The golden, velvety, fragrant Champagne mango is grown in Mexico, available now through July.

Whisk 1/2 c. sour cream with 1/2 c. whipped cream cheese.
Add 2 T. sugar and 1 T. grated lime zest.

We are very fond of Trader Joe’s Simply Fat Free Sour Cream.
It’s tangy, and surprisingly thick and rich.

When shells are cooked to a golden brown, cool on a wire rack for 5 minutes,
then remove the top hat with a knife.
Cool for 5 minutes more then fill the shell with the cream mixture.

Layer the mango over the cream. Finish with the top hat, a dollop of lime cream, and lime zest.
Now we’re all heroes.

A mango-hued rose from my garden (with a lime bow):
This is Honey Perfume Floribunda.

Quinoa with Fresh Mango & Pomegranate Arils
Red Onion, Jalapeño, Basil, Cilantro, Lime

We tried a new dish for Passover this year. Quinoa. Anyone who’s cooked Passover dinner knows the challenge of serving the crowd (33 in ours) immediately after the Seder which lasts about 1 1/2 hours. How to get the food to the table, timely and hot? This year we were short one chef (we sure missed you Allison) so we simplified our menu to make prep and service easier.

2012 Passover Menu

Geri’s Gefilte Fish
Kristy’s Haroset & Matzohs
Vicki’s Beet Salad & Fresh Horseradish
Hard Boiled Eggs

Chicken Soup with Herbed Matzoh Balls

Grilled Chicken, Apricot, Orange Ginger Glaze
Slow-Cooked Tomato Onion Beef Brisket
Asparagus over Spinach & Arugula, Sauce Gribiche
A Very Pretty Quinoa

Flourless Chocolate Cake
Almond Cake
Chocolate Covered Matzohs
Vicki’s Homemade Macarons
Fresh Fruit

First, we left out Davida’s Pistachio Crusted Chopped Liver to save on prep time. Boy, did we hear about that. OK folks, it’ll be back next year. Secondly, we changed our main side dishes to ones that could be served at room temperature, so we did not have to worry about heating them along with the chicken and brisket. Now these two room temperature sides were quite pretty, bright and colorful. Both the asparagus dish and quinoa received rave reviews.

A Very Pretty Quinoa Recipe

• 1 c. dry quinoa
• 1 jalapeño, finely chopped
• 1/2 c. red onion, small dice
• 1 firm but ripe mango, diced
• 5 oz. pomegranate arils
• 10 basil leaves, shredded
• big handful of cilantro leaves, de-stemmed, rough chopped
• juice from 1 lime
• 3 T. olive oil
• salt to taste

Toast quinoa and cook according to package instructions. Meanwhile combine jalapeño, onion, mango, pomegranate arils, olive oil, lime juice, and salt. Let fruit mixture sit to meld flavors while quinoa comes to room temperature. Combine quinoa with the fruit mixture. Taste and adjust salt, olive oil, or lime juice as needed. Lastly toss in the basil and cilantro. (This dish was inspired by Susie Fishbein’s “Quinoa with Thai Flavors” from Passover By Design).

We hope your Passover was bright with tradition,
full of love, warm hearts, and all the blessings of celebrating together.

"Brothers Feeding Brothers"

My nephews Jett (7) & Stone (9) feeding cousins Preston & Ethan (6 months) at Passover.

Passover Seder Table 2012 and Our Beloved Frog Collection

My dear sister-in-law Kristy and I gleefully agonize over the color scheme for the Passover Table every year. When our guests arrive just before sundown, they are always surprised and delighted by Kristy’s table.

And of course, by then, I’ve photographed the table from every angle for Taste With The Eyes. In addition to the striking turquoise & yellow color scheme of 2012, some of the color combinations from our past Seders include:

• Gold & Raspberry
• Gold & White
• Eggplant & Sky Blue
• Lavender & White
• Tangerine & Hot Pink

The Passover Seder Table is not simply a place to tell the story of the Exodus and to eat dinner. The Table is symbolic in and of itself. It is a place where memories are made and traditions are taught. It is where we gather with family and friends, and perhaps strangers too, to celebrate our freedoms.

The vibrancy and beauty of the Table reflect our gratitude to God for taking us from slavery to freedom, from sadness to happiness, from pain to joy, from darkness to light. Fresh flower arrangements that mirror the color scheme make the table especially spring-like and festive as we celebrate the bounty, joy, and beauty of the season.

Newcomers to the Seder ask, “What can I bring?” We say BRING A FROG…and we have built up quite a collection over the past decade!

Why a Frog?

God told Moses, “Behold, I hear the cry of the children of Israel. I have surely remembered you and seen what is done to you. And now I will put forth my hand and smite Egypt with signs and with wonders. Go tell Pharaoh, Let My people go!”

Moses told Pharaoh, “Let My people go!” But Pharaoh said no. So God sent ten awful plagues to punish the Egyptians and to teach Pharaoh that only God is God.

First God turns all the water in all the rivers, streams, ponds and pools in Egypt to blood. For seven days blood flows everywhere; there isn’t a single drop of water for the Egyptians to drink. And God says, “Let My people go!”

But Pharaoh still refuses. Now God sends frogs swarming all over Egypt. Frogs hop into the Egyptians’ houses, into their bedrooms and into their beds.

Frogs hop into the kitchens where bread is made, and even into the ovens.

And God says, “Let My people go!”

Pharaoh promises to set us free but as soon as God makes all the frogs hop away, Pharaoh breaks his promise.

So God sends seven more plagues: gnats, flies, cattle disease, boils, hail, locusts, darkness.

“Let My people go!” When Pharaoh still refuses, God sends the tenth and final plague – the slaying of the firstborn. But first God tells us to use the blood of a lamb to mark our doors. The Angel of Death will see the mark on our doors and PASS OVER our houses when it is time to inflict the plague.

“Let My people go!” Finally, finally Pharaoh frees us. God saved us from slavery with signs and wonders.

Little cousin Ava (6-weeks) wearing frogs to her first Seder.

We are all children of God. We remember the Egyptians who suffered such terrible plagues. We cannot satisfy our thirst or celebrate our freedom without remembering the sorrow of other people. We are no longer slaves, but what does our freedom mean? Our tradition teaches that all of us must work together to end slavery, find freedom, and create a better world.

(Portions of this post were written with the help of The Family Haggadah by Ellen Schecter).

Psst. Do you have suggestions for next year’s color scheme?
Please share!