Restaurant Highlights from 2007


Whole Foie Gras
per se, New York City

To be served a WHOLE FOIE GRAS to five of us was incredible. It was not on the menu, in fact, the menu read, ” Terrine of Hudson Valley Moulard Duck Foie Gras,” but Michael offered the whole enchilada and Don, of course, said yes. So here it is presented to us on a silver platter, simply, with fleur du sel and fresh herbs. Then it was taken back into the kitchen and plated. Wow!


Pavlova
Balthazar, New York City
The Pavlova at Balthazar is baked meringue filled with yogurt and mascarpone served with a silky warm berry sauce that is made to order. The meringue dissolves on your tongue, and with the sweetness of the meringune, the creaminess of the marscapone, the tart balance of the yogurt and the heavenly warm berries, this is really exceptional.


Hebrew National Deli Dog
Yankee Stadium
Can it get much better than enjoying a hot dog and a cold beer, sitting behind home plate on a warm summer afternoon at Yankee Staduim?


Tuna and Foie Gras Roll
Caviar Russe, New York City
The. Best. Sushi. Roll. Ever.


Hamachi
Water Grill, Los Angeles
Hamachi Crudo with Champagne Grapes Preserved Meyer Lemon, Lemon Verbena and English Pea Puree


Sumac Coated Australian Barramundi with Linguicia and Grilled Calamari Strewn Israeli Cous Cous with Castelvetrano Olives

Praised by Zagat Survey as Los Angeles’ top seafood restaurant since the day it opened, Water Grill has become an institution of excellence. In service, food, presentation, décor, ambiance and overall guest experience, this Downtown favorite exceeds all expectations.
We agree.

Sirlion Burger filled with Braised Short Ribs, Foie Gras and Black Truffle
Daniel Boulud’s db Bistro Moderne, New York City

Served on a Parmesan Bun, with Pommes Frites. Power lunch!

Oysters & Pearls – Two Coasts

The French Laundry, Yountville, CA

per se, NYC

We are lucky enough to have had this signature dish of Thomas Keller’s on the West Coast at the French Laundry and on the East Coast at per se. He says, “It’s a very sensual combination.” We couldn’t agree more. Ingredients include pearl tapioca, heavy cream, creme fraiche, egg yolks, vermouth, shallots, butter, chives, and of course, oysters and caviar.

What is extraordinary about these two photos is that they were taken several months apart, one in California and one in New York. Perfection in the kitchen.


Soft Shell Crab
Caviar Russe, New York City

Soft shell crab in a cool tomato broth w/ cucumbers, chives, & Vidalia onions. The broth offered a perfect fresh balance to the fried crab.

An exceptional wine pairing was a glass of Veuve Clicquot Rose…this was one of many fabulous brunch courses at Caviar Russe in Manhattan.

Tastiest of 2007

The Top 10 favorites from my kitchen this past year…

Panko Crusted Scallops
Mixed Lettuces, Cilantro Mint Vinaigrette


Schnitzel à la Holstein
Veal Cutlet, Fried Egg, Anchovy, Parsley Caper Lemon Butter Sauce


Matzoh Ball Soup
Homemade Chicken Soup, Fresh Parsley and Dill


New Zealand Greenshell Mussels
Spicy Tomato Herb Broth, Angel Hair Pasta


Spinach and Soybeans
Sesame Oil, Shaved Garlic, Red Chile Flakes


Filet Mignon, Madeira Sauce
Madeira Wine, Shallots, Thyme, Beef Stock, Butter


Wild American Black Cod in a Potato Crust
Lemony Butter Sauce


Sweet & Savory Brisket
Israeli Couscous Medley, Horseradish Cream


Littleneck Clams with Italian Sausage
In a Fragrant Broth, Served with Linguine


Sole Meunière
…in honor of Julia Child’s birthday

Pho Bo
Vietnamese Beef Noodle Soup

Happy New Year Everyone!

Now I’m off to watch the Rose Bowl.
Go Illinois, my alma mater! YAY!

Château Cos d’Estournel St. Estephe 1982

A 25 Year-Old Bordeaux with Christmas Dinner.

“Just like a novel writer can be the same and yet different through his works, a Grand Cru can express the same style through its different vintages.

Impressive in its youth by the intensity of its structure and the strength of its fruit, the wine of Cos evolves slowly to reach a wonderful melting quality and an aromatic complexity when it comes to complete maturity.

Great vintages of Cos d’Estournel can have an exceptionally long life, sometimes exceeding a hundred years.” Cos website


And an Old-Fashioned Christmas Dinner Menu:

Traditional Relish Tray, that spins 🙂
Beef Wellington with Green Peppercorn Port Wine Demi-Glace
Potatoes with Sour Cream & Horseradish
Carrots, Parsnips & Sweet Potatoes with Butter and Parsley
Steamed Green Beans
Roasted Beets
Eleanor’s Delicious Home-Baked Desserts & Cookies
Served on Virginia’s Christmas China

My Wine Notes:
60% Cabernet Sauvignon 40% Merlot
The cork: in fine shape, just slightly crumbly. Using an ah-so was helpful.
First impression: deep inky-purple color, surprising.
Bouquet: underwhelming.
Taste: austere to begin. But over time of about 3 hours it became more and more intriguing. Smooth with balanced acidity. There was certainly fruit there, but specific fruit flavors were not evident.
Overall: this wine is mature, not flamboyant, elegant, with a lingering finish and surprisingly no sediment. Quite enjoyable.

A special thank you to Lou and Lauren for including me in their family celebration.

Where were you in 1982?
I was working for the old Velvet Turtle Restaurants.
Beef Wellington was one of our signature dishes back then.

Pho Bo

Vietnamese Beef Noodle Soup
“The aroma is captivating and the taste a deliberate collusion of salty, sweet, and umami all in one.” Ann Le

The star of this extraordinary soup is the broth.

In a very large stockpot 3 lbs. beef short ribs and 2 lbs. oxtail are covered with water and brought to a boil.
Two large yellow onions and a knob of ginger root are charred over an open flame.
Toasted anise pods, cloves, peppercorns and smashed garlic cloves are wrapped in cheesecloth to make a spice bag.
The charred onions and ginger root, spice bag, cinnamon sticks, daikon, and shallots are added to the pot.
The broth is simmered for many hours. Then fish sauce, sugar and salt are added to taste, and simmered some more.
The fragrant broth is cooled and strained.

Cook’s Tip: The process takes quite a while, so make a large batch. After chilling overnight in the refrigerator, freeze a portion of the broth for another time.


The broth is re-heated and cooked noodles (traditionally flat rice noodles) are added.

Thinly sliced beef is cooked right in the bowl of hot broth.

The Pho Bo is garnished with bean sprouts, sliced scallions, fiery chiles, cilantro, lime. Vietnam Hot Garlic Sauce and Fish Sauce served on the side.

This recipe was inspired by Ann Le in the Little Saigon Cookbook, Vietnamese Cuisine and Culture in Southern California’s Little Saigon