Thank You Julia: Roast Chicken with a Natural Sauce

“A well-roasted chicken is the mark of a fine cook. Even among professionals, it is a source of pride to present a shapely chicken, with beautifully colored skin and perfectly done meat, juicy and tender. There is nothing technically difficult about roasting a chicken but there are many approaches to take…for serving either of our chickens, we suggest a delicious pan sauce.” from Julia and Jacques Cooking at Home.

The oven is preheated to 425°F. The chicken is rinsed thoroughly with hot water and dried with paper towels. Fat lumps are removed from the cavity. The small bony protrusions “nubbins” are removed from the wing-tip joints.

Carving is made easier when the wishbone is removed. This is done by lifting the neck skin and inserting a thin sharp knife into each end of the breast and slicing diagonally along each side of the wishbone.

The finger and thumb are used to loosen the bone, pry it out at the top, pull down, wriggling it out.

“A cooking process such as roasting a chicken is inexact – there is no one way that is the right way,” writes Julia. “Just start with a good chicken and pay attention to how you cook it.”

Voilà! The wishbone is removed!

 

“Not everything I do with my roast chicken is necessarily scientific,” she says. “For instance I always give my bird a generous butter massage before I put it in the oven. Why? Because I think the chicken likes it, and more important, I like to give it.”

Season the cavity with salt and pepper, stuff it with 4 sprigs of fresh tarragon and 4 thick slices of lemon. Give the lemon a little squeeze as they are inserted. Massage softened butter over the entire chicken skin and salt generously. Squeeze lemon juice over the chicken. “I learned the butter massage when I started cooking for the first time in France and would never give it up.”

The wings were folded up against the breast and the drumsticks tied together with twine. After roasting for 15 minutes, the heat is lowered to 350°F. The chicken is repeatedly basted with accumulated juices. Rough chopped carrots and onions are added after 30 minutes more. (We got nice caramelized brown bits in the bottom of the pan but had to add some chicken stock to the pan to prevent burning). The chicken is done when the juices run clear. Pierce the breast with the tines of a carving fork, press to bring the juices up, there should be no traces of pink. After about 1 1/2 hours the chicken was removed to a cutting board to rest for 15 minutes.
A Natural Sauce from the Roasting Pan

The pan can be tilted to accumulate the juices and fat in one corner, then spoon off the fat.
Julia shares, “Another aspect of roasting that is very important to me – also a lesson from my early years in France – is making the deglazing sauce from the drippings and brown bits in the roasting pan. These brown bits are the precious, caramelized natural juices, their flavor intensified and concentrated by the process of roasting and basting. When you turn these bits into a ‘deglazing’ sauce, you are preserving and essence of pure delicious chicken. There is nothing better to serve with your roast.”

Or do as we did, pouring everything into a gravy separator, then pouring the juices back into the pan, which worked great for removing the vegetables and much of the fat.

The pan is placed over two medium heat burners, 2 T. minced shallots are added to the pan, stirring briefly. Then 1/3 c. of dry white wine and 2/3 c. chicken stock are added, raise the heat to high, and cook to get the sauce to the right consistency, scraping up all the glazed bits in the pan with a wooden spoon. Taste the sauce, adjust seasoning. Strain to remove bits, add butter for a richer finish (we skipped the butter and found the sauce delightfully rich and flavorful without it).
Lauren carves the bird: Remove the trussing strings and lay the chicken on its side. Cut the skin all around the thigh and leg. Lift the leg and pull away. The thigh will break off at the hip joint. Separate the drumstick from the thigh. Then holding the fork in the breast, cut through the should joint under the wing. Slice through to the outer part of the breast. Remove the breast meat with the wing attached.
Roast Chicken with a Natural Sauce

Pour the sauce onto a warm platter.
Top with the carved chicken.
Recipe from:
Julia and Jacques Cooking at Home
Published by Random House 1999

A well-roasted chicken and delicious sauce indeed!
Merci Beaucoup Julia!
Once again, in honor of Julia’s birthday, August 15th, Lisa of Champaign Taste blog is hosting the Fourth Annual Julia Child Birthday Celebration. Please join us in celebrating Julia, details here.
“Toujours Bon Appétit!”

A Tribute to Julia Child: The Perfect Lunch

Julia’s First Meal in France
with Husband, Paul Child
(a re-creation)

We rolled to a stop in La Place du Vieux Marché,
the square where Joan of Arc had met her fiery fate.
There the Guide Michelin directed us to
Restaurant La Couronne.

Rouen is a 2000 year old city
located in Normandy
on the Seine River
not too far from the English Channel.
Rouen, France
November 1948

 

“The waiter is telling them about the chicken they ordered,” Paul whispered, “How it was raised, how it will be cooked, what side dishes they can have with it, and which wines would go best.”
“Wine?” exclaimed Julia, “at lunch?”

“We began our lunch with oysters on the half shell.”
“Rouen is famous for its duck dishes, but after consulting the waiter Paul had decided to order Sole Meunière…perfectly browned in a sputtering butter sauce with a sprinkling of chopped parsley on top.”

“Then came the salade verte with a slightly acidic vinaigrette.”

“Along with our meal, we happily downed a whole bottle of Pouilly-Fumé, a wonderfully crisp white wine from the Loire region.  Another revelation!”

“We followed our meal with a leisurely dessert of fromage…”

 

“Paul and I floated out the door into the brilliant sunshine and cool air. Our first lunch together in France had been absolute perfection. It was the most exciting meal of my life.”
This is as she describes her meal to us in My Life in France by Julia Child with Alex Prud’homme, published by Alfred A. Knopf, New York, 2006.
To re-create the delicious Sole Meunière:
Season the fresh Petrale Sole, then dip it in a beaten egg. Dredge in flour and shake off the excess. Sauté in a half butter/half olive oil mixture until light brown. Make the sauce in another pan; brown the butter, finish with lemon juice and chopped parsley. Pour sauce on the platter, then top with the fish. Garnish with lemons and parsley.
(original post 8.14.2007)

La Seine
TaStE WiTh ThE EyEs
celebrates
JULIA CHILD
The month of August is Julia Child Month here at Taste With The Eyes. I will be resurrecting some prior Julia related posts as well as cooking some new Julia inspired dishes. And for the fourth year in a row, Lisa at Champaign Taste blog is holding her fabulous annual Julia Child Event to celebrate Julia’s birthday on August 15. Come join us in celebrating our heroine, go here for details!
Toujours Bon Appétit!

Dorado, Baja Camping Style

I hadn’t made this in a long time. Dorado (aka mahi mahi and dolphinfish) fell off my radar. Too bad, fresh dorado is fabulous. It has a sweet mild flavor similar to swordfish, firm texture with large moist flakes. Our local Bristol Farms was featuring wild-caught dorado from the Pacific waters off the coast of Baja California, Mexico that had just arrived.
Several years ago my then-husband and I took a road trip in our camper down the Baja peninsula of Mexico. I recall grilling the fresh-caught dorado and loving the preparation. (remember this, Gar?)
It is great for camping because it requires few ingredients:
  1. Bring canned pineapple slices in heavy syrup and white rice, olive oil, salt and pepper with you on your camping trip.
  2. Pick up fresh spring onion and Mexican lime and serrano chile pepper locally.
  3. Catch a dorado.
Dorado can rate good or bad on the sustainability chart depending how it is fished. Bristol Farms’ buyers are meticulous in purchasing only the highest quality seafood. Dorado that has been fished by longlining should be avoided due to accidental bycatch of sea turtles and seabirds.
Marinate dorado filets in the syrup from the canned pineapple for about 1 hour. Drain off the syrup then drizzle the fish with olive oil and season with salt and pepper. Grill the fish, over high heat, turning once, until the flesh is just opaque.
Meanwhile toss spring onion and serrano with olive oil. Grill them, and pineapple rings straight from the can. Serve with fluffy white rice and Mexican limes. Happy camping!

Even if you don’t plan on camping in Baja anytime soon,
do try this on your backyard grill!
Muy Sabroso!

Butter Lettuce Salad, Smoked Salmon Rosettes

Butter Lettuce
Shell Pasta
Thin Asparagus and Petite Peas
Tarragon, Basil, Italian Parsley
Dijon Vinaigrette
Crumbled Feta
Smoked Salmon Rosettes

Cook frozen petite peas in boiling water with salt for about 3 minutes. Add thin asparagus spears and cook for one minute longer. Drain then shock in an ice bath.

Tarragon, Italian Parsley, and Basil
Jacques Pepin’s Vinaigrette in a Jar:
2 tsp chopped garlic
3 Tbs Dijon-style mustard
1/2 tsp salt
1/4 tsp freshly ground pepper
1/4 c red or white wine vinegar
1 c extra virgin olive oil
I also add 2 tsp minced shallot.
Put all ingredients in a jar, screw on the lid, and shake very well.

Toss torn butter lettuce leaves with cooled cooked pasta shells, peas and asparagus, lots of chopped fresh herbs, and Dijon vinaigrette.

Serve with crumbled feta and smoked salmon rosettes made by slicing the smoked salmon into strips with one end thicker than the other. Roll the thick end towards the thin end to make a rosette.
Pretty. Summer. Salad.

Fried Hood Canal Oyster, Two Ways

Fried Oyster Taco

Fried Oyster Po’ Boy

Hood Canal Oyster
These beauties are from the cold clean waters of the Hood Canal in Washington State. The species, Pacific (Crassostrea gigas), was originally imported from Japan and has been farmed in Washington since the beginning of the last century.
When shopping for your oysters to make tacos or po’ boys make sure to buy extra, so you can enjoy these delicious, firm, slightly salty, meaty oysters au naturel as well. The Oyster Guide, a terrific oyster resource, describes the flavors as reminiscent of lettuce and lemon zest.

Take the freshly shucked oyster and dust with flour, dip in a beaten egg, then coat with panko breadcrumbs. Fry in canola oil over medium high heat until golden brown, turning once. Transfer to a paper towel and season with a little sea salt.

Top warm corn tortillas with shredded cabbage, cilantro, and small dice white onion, a sprinkle of salt. Top with the hot crispy fried oyster, a squeeze of lime, and a drizzle of ají amarillo crema.
Two Sauces: Ají Crema and Ají Mayonnaise

The ají amarillo is a yellow Peruvian pepper that is simultaneously hot and fruity. This pepper and fried oysters make a great flavor combination. For the taco, mix ají amarillo salsa with Crema Mexicana.

The sauce for the po’ boy is made by blending ají amarillo salsa with mayonnaise. Spread on both sides of a sliced French roll, top with lettuce and tomatoes and fried oyster. Pickles are a good addition too.

In New Orleans around 1900, the precursor of the Po’ Boy sandwich was called La Mediatrice (the peacemaker) as a man who might have stayed out too late at night would bring fried oysters on a buttered French roll home to appease his not-so-happy wife. “Look honey, don’t be mad, I brought you some fried oysters!”